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Related: Culture Forums, Support Forums[Update] I am sitting at Nissan to get a bulb replaced, rear drivers side.
Last edited Sat Apr 25, 2026, 07:46 PM - Edit history (1)
Success!! No broken bits.
Thank you all for your comments. $42 (seems fair).
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So the service advisor tells me because of the age of my car, 2007 Nissan Versa, there is a chance the cover may break/crack when they take it off. AND that if that happens they are NOT responsible.
WTH?
I keep my car in great shape.
Also, he said because of the age of the car they no longer manufacture that part.
All because one of my lights is out.
What a pain.
I'm still waiting so we'll see what happens...
mahatmakanejeeves
(70,543 posts)IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)bucolic_frolic
(55,684 posts)On a 2007 Nissan Versa hatchback, the rear lightbulbs are accessed by removing the entire tail light housing assembly from the outside, not from inside the hatch. You must open the hatch, remove two 10mm nuts hidden behind plastic covers in the interior trim, and pull the assembly backward.
Key Steps for Replacement:
Access Inside: Open the hatchback and pry off the two small circular or rectangular plastic panels on the interior trim behind the taillight.
Remove Housing: Remove the two 10mm nuts found behind these panels.
Release Assembly: Carefully pull the entire light assembly straight back from the car. It is held by a plastic guide pin on the side; you may need to firmly tap it or pull steadily to release it.
Replace Bulb: Twist the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly, replace the bulb, and reassemble in reverse.
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As for brittle plastic. I dunno. Plastic can get brittle with age and heat and sun, so you have to go carefully.
If they break the lens or housing, get all the pieces to take home. Glue, epoxy, pins ... I once broke off the turning signal stem on a Honda. Incredibly it was plastic. I think a national muffler chain broke it on the test drive, but I digress. I took the shaft and drilled a hole in each corner ... we're talking 3/16" of plastic. Clamped the shaft on the broken stem, then blow torched the pins and rammed them in. Sanded off the excess. It's stronger than original. Because I couldn't buy the part anywhere, once the warehouses are empty, no more. Scarcity.
IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)Its parked in a garage so doesn't get too much hot direct sun.
Fingers crossed.
cachukis
(4,055 posts)A little of this and that might be helpful. What you think might be a good pull might not be where tge best pull is.
bucolic_frolic
(55,684 posts)IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)I hope it's that easy.
riversedge
(81,425 posts)I am assuming it is a signal light?? turn light.
Guess if it were mine, I would have to take a chance of it cracking. Then I do not know what I'd do--maybe just glue it till I figured out something better.
safe travels. --and good luck.
IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)Thanks.
eppur_se_muova
(42,361 posts)And the instructions are in the manual, I just couldn't find the manual.
Brake and turn signal lights are accessible through the trunk, upper brake light from inside the cabin, license plate lights from outside (pry loose two fasteners). Find the bulbs in the Toyota catalog, then find LED equivalents at local hardware or autoparts store for half the cost.
Just dumb luck I never even looked at a Nissan, I guess.
IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)was available here in the u.s.
I've had no problems with it.
The la times did a review of it when it first came out. Got a good review but the author said "it's as sexy as room temperatures tofu". LOL
Phentex
(16,748 posts)I'd look him in the eye and say you break it, you buy it
Intractable
(2,354 posts)General mechanics are masters of the improv. They get it done by hook or by crook. Dealerships do it solely by the book.
All rhyming is unintentional.
ProfessorGAC
(77,169 posts)...those assemblies are still available, all over the internet, but not from Nissan.
Most of those sites have a fit analyzer, so you are guaranteed a fit before you even order.
I ordered a new control arm for my beater Sebring (1998). Chrysler quit making them 6 years prior, but I found them at 3 or 4 different sites. It fit perfectly. (No, I didn't do it myself.)
Finally, I don't understand why a professional would break an assembly just because it's old.
I changed the bulbs on that old beater and the assembly came right out.
MichMan
(17,333 posts)Shop is just warning that breakage is possible
IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)ProfessorGAC
(77,169 posts)But unless it's stuck really badly, it should be easily removed without enough force to break the assembly.
I can see if the car saw nothing but sunlight in the daytime that uV embrittlement would be more likely.
But, I'd think a garage kept car was that old the total uV absorption would not be high enough.
And, there is no other chemical mechanism by which embrittlement would occur.
The most common cause of embrittlement is the slow degradation of the plasticizer, usually a phthalate of some form.
It would take a lot of uV exposure to degrade the additive enough for substantial change in either tensile strength or elasticity.
MichMan
(17,333 posts)Not understanding the angst about it. Most cars as they get older have body and trim parts discontinued by the manufacturer. That is why salvage yards and eBay can be valuable resources.
I do the vast majority of all my mechanical work myself. This is about as basic of a repair as it gets; in a quick search I found multiple You Tube videos showing exactly how to do it, even for those less mechanically skilled. Takes only an 8 mm socket and a screwdriver, so tools would cost $10 (assuming you didn't have any), plus the cost of the bulb at $10.
ProfessorGAC
(77,169 posts)I do that stuff myself & I'm no mechanic.
Not sure where the angst is being shown. Certainly not on my part.
Bristlecone
(11,165 posts)IcyPeas
(25,729 posts)no breakage.
Thank you.
Bristlecone
(11,165 posts)Emile
(43,090 posts)a crack in my dashboard. The dealership cracked my dashboard replacing the airbag.