New to Sewing -- have a dozen questions...

[GreatGazoo]

I bought a machine about 4 months back to repair sheets, hem curtains, etc. and started making clothing. I love it. It is a challenge to think in 3 dimensions and putting it all together is like doing a puzzle.

What is a good place to buy fabric online? I have a JoAnn's locally but their selection seems to be cheap and more oriented toward quilters. I am looking for high quality flannel, all cotton knits and organic cottons suitable for sleepwear and light weight clothing.

What are good alternatives (for finishing seams) to pinking shears? I remember as a kid thinking that it was odd that all the uncomfortable parts of clothing (the seams, serger threads, etc) are on the inside, against the body.

The machine I bought was $70 (a Brother 2517). I really want to invest in a decent machine that I could use on heavier fabrics and for more precise work like piping, flat felled seams, silk, linen. I will be buying the feet for piping/zipper, rolled hem and others but I don't want to buy feet for the $70 machine if I am moving up. What machine(s) are good for making custom clothing and alterations? What is a good machine at $300 or at $700?

I see there is software to make your own patterns (or customize from templates). Is there a machine that will cut fabric directly from computer designs? I found some that cut 12" pieces but really want something that can cut pants and shirts, something that will work with the whole width of the fabric so about 45 inches or so.

Is starting and ending with 4 backstitches enough or should I be doing something else to the ends of my thread?

What kinds of fabric are challenging to work with versus which are easy?

Is pre-washing fabric absolutely necessary, especially for cotton?

Thanks for any help!

[jonno99]

1. A few thoughts:

- regarding "finishing" with pinking shears, you might consider "folding" the fabric ends inward before stitching (of course this will require a little more fabric, but you lose the "uncomfortable" serrated edge).

- IMHO, 4 backstitches is adequate.

- (heavy) denim can be a bear to work with - you'll want to use heavy-duty needles

Have fun!

[GreatGazoo]

2. Thanks!

I found a lot of great stuff on YouTube. This college put some of their course material online, including french seams and other ways to finish seams.

&list=PLeEMs9XJguBSu-UyFztsRI4uhUjyXsdoy&index=3

[jonno99]

3. Cool. I'm never ceaased to be amazed by all the stuff you can learn from YouTube.

Again - have fun & good luck!

[csziggy]

29. As for a better machine - a Juki, as in the video, is a great machine

While most Jukis are higher priced, they do have two or three computerized machines (with fancy stitches) for around $700. Juki makes more industrial sewing machines than any other company in the world. Their machines are made to last and are very solid. I'd recommend you look at the HZL-F300 - it comes with a lot of features and accessories and is under $700.

I have a Juki HZL-DX7, which was about twice your budget. I have used it almost every day for a year and a half and it hasn't given me any grief. It can sew through heavy denim easily - I made two bags for my husband's games and it breezed through multiple layers of the denim without complaining. I did change to a 16 needle for that sewing.

Mostly I am piecing quilt tops, which is easy for the Juki. I put in 4-6 hours a day on this machine and it doesn't complain - though I did bend a part on my bobbin casing recently and had to replace it. I do have to clean lint out regularly, but most Jukis have sealed bearing so you don't have to oil them the way most machines need to be oiled regularly.

There are two lines of home Jukis - the computerized with fancy stitches and the mechanical that only stitch straight. For garment sewing you'd probably want a computerized machine so you'd have overcast, zig zag and other stitches to finish you seams.

Juki Junkies on YouTube has some good videos on various Juki models. They also have a shop (in Brandon, Florida) where they sell them, but you are better off finding a shop near you.

[northoftheborder]

4. I recently bought a Brother----

It was about $700 - on sale, with enough stitches for me. I do household sewing (cushions, curtains, placemats, etc. plus alterations to clothes.) I want to get into some more creative sewing this year ---- .

If you do quilting, they advise washing your fabric.

I'll be interested in fabric sources online if people answer your question . There are so few retail store sources of good fabric -- it is ridiculous. Years ago, I sewed my own clothes, and beautiful wool, silk, linen, velvet, lace, etc.. was available at department stores. People just stopped making clothes when all the cheap clothes from abroad became available. Specialty quilt fabric stores do have good quality cottons.

Also, I have a question for anyone who knows about what kind of thread to use with the new machines. The place I bought my machine said to not use Coats & Clark, OR any old thread. The thread they sell is expensive. Is that true? Where in the world besides specialty shops can you buy thread that is not Coats and Clark? You need to buy in person (not online) to match with your fabric. I have a huge quantity of thread from past sewing history in all hues. It would cost a bunch of dollars to buy enough new thread to do a lot of sewing.

[catchnrelease]

6. Re thread

I was told the same as you when I got my machine. Don't use cheap thread. So I use the Guttermans threads, which are expensive, but I use a coupon and get it from Joanns so it's not so painful. I confess that I also have a lot of old thread which I might use if it's the color I need and I try to break it first. If it breaks easily I probably will toss it, but if it seems to be fairly strong still, I go ahead and use it.

[GreatGazoo]

8. what makes the difference in thread?

I have only used Coats & Clark so far. What makes good thread good (eg. better)?

[demigoddess]

32. I use serger thread for sewing clothes and everything because newer

sewing machines sew so fast that the vintage cotton thread and newer thread often shreds in the machine. So I use a needle with a larger eye (can't remember type) and serger thread. And my favorite machines are New Home and Janome (same thing).

[csziggy]

27. When I started quilting, I was told to use Gutterman

So I bought some, but since I couldn't find the colors I needed, I bought some Coats and Clark spools.

I had far more trouble with the Gutterman than I have had with the Coats and Clark. In addition, the locally sold Gutterman comes only in small spools, maybe 300 yards, while the C&C comes in 1200 yard spools for only a couple of dollars more.

I've also used some of the old thread I have but have not used any of the really old thread - the ancient stuff on wooden spools that I probably inherited from my grandmother. I don't remember her sewing at all, even though I have her 1908 Pritzlaff Electric sewing machine. Apparently long before I was old enough to remember, she was a quilter. I have a folding table with measurements on one side and a bunch of big quilting hoops that were probably hers.

[dem in texas]

23. It's the shape of the spool that makes the difference

I have an old Singer, a Singer 5032, their top of the line machine from the 1960's. It does not like the new threads, they slip out of the threading path because the spools are too tall. I also have a new Viking, it does not like Coats and Clark because it wants the thread spool to be inserted sideways. So I buy Coats and Clark for my old machine and Gutterman's for the Viking.

You may wonder why I still use the old machine. It is the fastest machine ever and when I am in production, I can turn out the work. Also all the gears and parts are metal and I can sew just about anything, I have even repaired the pull straps on Cowboy boots on that machine, of course, using heavy needles. I have trouble sewing the flat felled seams on jeans on the Viking, it reaches that area and just hangs up, I think because the gear parts are plastic. The Viking is okay for quilt tops which is most of what I sew now.

[catchnrelease]

5. I bought a Janome

I don't do much clothing anymore, mostly doll making, or things like curtains, pillowcases etc. I got my Janome machine about 4 yrs ago and still love it. It's middle of the road as far as what it does. Basic stitches, nothing too fancy as I didn't need that. But it does a few things that I love, like will stop with the needle down every time. Also gives the option to make a knot at the beginning/end of a seam vs doing the backstitching thing. I don't remember exactly what I paid but I think it was about $400 something on sale. If you are going to be serious about wanting a good versatile machine I am told the Berninas are excellent, but not cheap.

If you are doing anything in cotton I would always pre wash it. I don't always if it's for a doll project, but those items won't be washed after being made. If you don't prewash and make an item, and try to wash it later, it will most likely become distorted as it shrinks in different directions so to speak.

I hate sewing anything 'slippery' like rayons, nylons, etc. Or very stretchy, I just don't have much patience with those. Or things that fray easily. Because I am usually working in smaller, detailed pieces I find it difficult to mess with those kind of finicky fabrics. I am told it helps a lot to use a backing, like a fusable interfacing, to keep the slippery ones from moving around as you sew them.

As far as buying fabric, if you can find an independent store they usually have the best choices. It's difficult as most have gone out of business, but there are still some around. There is definitely a better quality than what you'd find at Joanns. I prefer to see and feel it if at all possible and it's worth it to make a buying trip even if I have to drive a little out of my way. Or go to a big quilt show if you can find one near enough and buy a stash for future projects if you know what you might want to be doing. Fabrics.com is one I have bought from online, but I had seen the fabric in person so I knew what it looked and felt like. Many of the independent stores will sell online now, so even if too far away you could get something that way. What area are you in?

[GreatGazoo]

7. I'm near Albany NY

Looked for fabric stores other than JoAnn's around here only to read reviews and farewells from the ones who have gone out of business. I get to NYC twice a year and will go to the garment district next time. I see Mood sells online but they seem a touch pricey perhaps due to their fame from "Project Runway."

Have been making pajamas and have seen ads for pajamas made with "portugese flannel" -- not sure what makes it better but would love to find some for comparison to what I have been buying -- JoAnn's "cozy" at $2.50/yard. I have been making items in navy and I find that there is a noticeable difference from one bolt to the next, with many not dark enough for the effect I like -- classic navy blue with white piping. Tried making a set of top and bottom for a relative for Christmas and couldn't get more of the darker stuff in time so I will buy bolts next time (8 yards each, about $20).

I think working with the more difficult fabrics will help clean up my technique as I return to the easy stuff -- I have been sewing a lot of the flannel without pinning because it doesn't slip at all. I cut up a tuxedo shirt that I got free from a local thrift store. It was white Brooks Brothers egyptian cotton and I made a neck placket for a nightshirt out of some that I cut from the sleeve but I wasn't all that precise in the folding and alignment of the layers. Learned the placket from this video and plan to use it again:

Quilting is something I have no exposure to. Is it limited to making quilts (as the name would suggest)? and are a fabrics labelled 'quilting' better than others?

[demigoddess]

31. portugese flannel is good stuff, from what I have seen.

when I make pjs for my daughter I use flannel sheets.

[Rebkeh]

9. Buying fabric

Amazon has a decent selection, fabric.com and craftsy.com are reliable. Hancock is great for specialty type fabrics it seems, I rarely work with them though so I can't say for sure.

[GreatGazoo]

11. Thank You!

[Rebkeh]

12. You're welcome!

I think you'll enjoy sewing the more you do it, it never gets boring. Frustrating, yes. Even maddening at times but always rewarding. It can be therapeutic too. I'm not an expert, I'm not even very good, but I enjoy it immensely. I sew and crochet in fits and starts, small projects only. I started Xmas gifts as early as September last year and saved a ton of money too.

I avoid sewing with slippery fabrics and rarely work with loose knits, they are just not worth the aggravation. But if you get the hang of it, the options increase exponentially.

[grntuscarora]

13. Another rec here for fabric.com

I found them 2 years ago and have been delighted, although I've mainly used them for quilting fabrics so far.

[csziggy]

30. Amazon shut down Fabric.com last year.

Too bad since they were a great source.

Hancock's of Paducah is good, though.

[japple]

10. You might want to look for pre-owned sewing machines on craigslist

or other online sites. I know several women who have sewing machines (some of them are expensive) that have never been taken out of the box they came in. In some cases, they received them as gifts and have never learned how to use them or they thought they might like to try sewing and bought a nice machine but never got around to getting started.

I have a 1950s Singer--very basic machine, but with all the attachments. It is in a nice fold-out cabinet with 3 drawers to hold sewing supplies and a stool that has more storage space under the seat. My late husband did quite a lot of sewing on this machine, including furniture upholstery with cording and making down coats, jackets, vests and jackets from Frostline kits that were popular in the 1970s. I can do anything on it from sewing on flimsy fabrics to heavy denim. Several years ago, I made a lot of stuffed animals and that machine never quit. If you have the right needles and attachments, you can go anywhere. Also, the basic models have fewer parts to break down and require fewer adjustments.

There is a Hancock Fabric store very close to where I live and I have found most of their supply to meet my needs. Of course, I don't do anything fancy and I don't make garments anymore.

Oops, I almost forgot to mention the most important thing: Don't forget to check thrift stores. I often find large pieces of fabric when I am looking for bedsheets, table linens, etc. Years ago, I started creating felted objects from wool sweaters that I found at thrift stores and shrunk (wash in hot water/dry in hot dryer) at home. Some of the items I made were quite beautiful, though I never had the time at that point in my life to do more than a few gifts for friends/family. Also, if you check out thrift stores, don't hesitate to buy a nice garment and then take it apart and reuse the fabric to make something else. I have found exquisite silks, linens and beautiful woolen garments that could be used in other, more creative ways.

I hope you have a great time and will update on your progress.

[SheilaT]

14. My sister used to make all of her own clothes.

For years, starting in the early '70s. She gave up probably in the late '90s as she could hardly find decent fabric any more. Apparently, when we had a strong textile industry in this country, the fabric that wound up in fabric stores was what was left over from making the fabric for the clothing manufacturers. After a while, all the textile manufacturing left, or most of it and what was left was not good quality.

However, she quilts a LOT, and has no trouble finding good quality cotton for quilts.

I believe there are still decent fabric stores out there, but you're going to have to search for them. You will find adequate, not any better than that, at Joanne's. I was in my local Joanne's earlier today looking for some yarn, and just walking by the fabric was almost painful.

[pengillian101]

15. I'm just returning to sew a bit.

Oops, I goofed in replying with just a title at first.

What I was going to say is that you might want to try nice, flat sheets instead material off a bolt. Here's a conversion chart: bedsheets to fabric yardage.

http://www.sewmuchado.com/2009/10/conversions-bed-sheets-to-fabric-yardage.html

[GreatGazoo]

16. Thanks for the chart. I'm having trouble with my cheap flannel

as it looses shape, pills and washes poorly.

[PennyK]

17. Fabric.com

That's where I buy most of my stuff.
For finishing, zig-zagging is fine, and shouldn't irritate skin.
Dpo not fear knits! using them for clothing eliminates about 50% of fitting issues, and they really are not difficult to sew. You're smart, however, to concentrate on wovens for your first projects.
I've been sewing since my Barbie days, and I'm 65 now. My mother started me out, and over the years I've made almost everything, from bathing suits to prom gowns to quilts to curtains to purses. It's the best hobby ever! My best to you.
OH! YES, prewash everything the way it will be washed later on.
And I have no issues with Coats thread...I never heard before that it's 'substandard.'

[GreatGazoo]

18. Thanks for your answers and encouragement!

[TexasBushwhacker]

19. I like Denverfabrics.com and Fabric.com

For upholstery fabric I like modern-fabrics.com . They sell bolt ends and such, even leather hides. Because the yardage is limited, the prices are deeply discounted off regular retail.

I've purchased fabric on EBay too.

[GreatGazoo]

20. Thanks for the suggestions.

[TexasBushwhacker]

21. And a little warning

You can buy a bumper sticker that says "Whoever dies with the most fabric wins". It is VERY easy to start collecting fabric for future projects. And then you find another piece that's just perfect and it's ON SALE, and so on. Obviously it not a problem to purchase coordinating fabrics for an outfit or a home decorating project, but try to tackle one project at a time.

[eleny]

22. How are things going?

I've been wondering how you're doing with your new endeavor.

I enjoy sewing and am always interested in learning about machines that are new to me. So I watched some videos about your Brother and it looks like a delight. A full sized machine that's also lightweight sounds perfect for a beginner. You could take it out to a sewing class or move it from room to room for a change of scenery in your home. One reviewer at Amazon said that they sewed heavier fabrics with it and pointed out that it's a matter of choosing the right needle and thread and to take it slow. So I hope that your Brother is hanging in there and meeting your needs.

If I was ready for another machine I'd consider moving on to a serger. Garments can mostly be completed with a basic serger. I belong to Pattern Review, the website dedicated to all things sewing. Many sewing enthusiasts at all levels appear to give the Brother 1034D very high praise. It's supposed to be the easiest to thread after Baby Lock's Air threading. That's saying something!

I got the Baby Lock five years ago because I used to be a complete klutz at threading a serger. I love my BL but if I had it to do over again I would find a dealer locally that had the Brother and try it out for an hour or so and then decide. I just watched a video on threading it and it looks like a breeze. Manufacturers are listening to their customers and providing color coding and other pointers for threading these days.

Good luck and happy sewing!

[AmandaRuth]

24. my thoughts

first off, i am delighted to find a forum about sewing, my favorite hobby

---check out Craftsy classes, they are an online site that offers many classes on a ton of different crafts. You pay once for a class and you can keep it forever, and they are downloadable. Each class has about 6 to 8 lessons. I love them, being enrolled in about 25 classes, which i watch over and over. They always have sales on their class price, never never pay the full price. And about one every 4 months, they have a "clearance" price on classes of $19.99. I've taken dozens of sewing classes (at community college and joanns and so forth), the craftsy classes are the best!

---always always always prewash (or pretreat) your fabric. no exceptions

---another place that i really like for fabric is fabric-mart, most excellent online sales

---check out youtube or a craftsy class for alternative seam finishes (other than pinking shears)

---easiest fabrics (imho) are cotten and linen - difficulty goes up with the slippery factor, any slippy slidey fabric is harder. Unstable knits can be challenging as well.

---the best sewing machine question is harder, as I have found dealers to be not as informed or honest as I would like. Recommendations from other sewers are best. Sewing machine manufacturing has changed quite a bit in my day. Most lightweight machines have internal parts made of plastic, which wear down faster, as opposed to the old machines (like my mothers singer) that have metal parts and were made to last a lifetime. Personally, I like Phaff and Bernina's. I thought allbrands.com had good prices on a range of machines.

I am sure there is some type of machine that will do the cutting you asked about, but probably mega bucks and made for commercial production. In one of the craftsy classes, instructor Janet Prey (not sure of spelling) talks about and instructs "stack cutting", which is just like it sounds, a way to cut multiples of the same pattern piece.

anyway good luck and let us know how it is going

[demigoddess]

25. I have 3 NewHome sewing machines. Some of the best around. One has lasted me over 30 years,

no repairs needed. I have been sewing up my stash in recent years. I love a good cotton/linen blend. I have a handicapped daughter and I have had to make all of her clothes, pajamas and bibs. I had to learn to add a diaper space in the size she has worn in recent years. She is not normal sized but the size she wears does not have diaper space in the patterns. There was a company making clothes for handicapped kids but they seem to have disappeared.
And I have made just about all my own clothes, too. I made a pattern from a tee shirt, lengthened it to the knees, made knee length tee shirts and that is what I sleep in.

[chowmama]

26. Welcome to your new obsession.

Sewers (sewists?) are really individual, so you'll end up picking answers that work best for you. Everybody has quirks and being self-taught, I'm probably quirkier than most. Take my opinions for whatever value you place on them.

Machines - figure out your specific needs, and then level up just one step. You'll have skills to grow into without getting the sewing version of a Lamborghini. Too many options are intimidating. Too few are frustrating. You'll eventually want a new machine, but at least it won't be every year.

Old machines are fantastic, if basic. They don't wear out with reasonable maintenance and can be fixed. However, my first machine was an Elna 'FunStyler' and I think it was designed for teenagers. It did, inevitably, fail but I still have it. I can no longer choose a stitch, but I've forced it into being frozen into the buttonhole function. A lot of cloth went through that machine. But I love my 1971 Bernina Record. All 50 pounds of it.

I think backstitching is good enough. Sometimes I knot the threads instead. Never both.

I haven't found an online place I really like yet. Joann is often a disappointment, unless you're heavily into acrylic fleece. I got some good cotton batik there recently, though. I've also got access to a really good, if small, shop and a big factory outlet, so I'm spoiled.

The seam finishing depends on the weight and structure of the cloth. You'll need some kind of overlock for ravelly knits. Assuming the seam allowances are relatively narrow and the piece isn't really form-fitting, they're not too uncomfortable. Once you get into negative ease, all bets are off.

Once in a while for a light blouse-weight, I've done French seams - they use a lot of thread, but they're comfortable and never ravel out. Heavy cloth, like denim, can be more comfortable with a fake flat-fell. (Zigzag or otherwise finish the edge of one side, then just flatten it over the other side, which has been cut down after the seam was sewn. Stitch it from the right side to look like a flat-fell, enclosing the unfinished edge.) This is flatter and a little more flexible than a true flat-fell.

Slippery, very stretchy or napped fabrics are challenging for me, but I'll still work with them. I love corduroy. Otherwise, I do ok with the basics. For true sewing joy, my all-time favorite was some wool I deliberately felted in the wash and used for a Siberian Parka (Folkwear pattern). It's still my "it's 30 below and I am Not Effing Around" coat. Handled like a dream and needed no seam finish at all.

Yes, you always have to treat your fabric before sewing it, unless you like surprises. Conventional wisdom says to treat it like you're going to treat the finished garment. This is where I get really quirky.

Fabric comes in my door and goes straight into the wash on the hottest cycle, wash and dry. What comes out may not resemble what went in. Sometimes I have a fabric that's going to be perfect - for a different project. But I can cut around any damage and what's left is indestructible. I'm still going to treat it properly from now on, but at least I won't have that sinking feeling as I open the dryer door and find that it got into the wrong load. And I know any fabric that made it up to the sewing room is good to go.

I wore my Siberian parka to the store I bought the fabric (originally a medium-weight men's wool suiting). They admired it and asked where I got the fabric. I told them I bought it at their store and they looked really puzzled because they didn't recognize it. I told them I'd put it through multiple washes on 'Boil' until it stopped shrinking. They blanched visibly. It worked, though.

[Trailrider1951]

28. I have a recommendation for a sewing machine. It's the one I have

that I use most often: Find yourself a Singer 301A. It is the finest home sewing machine ever made. It is a true rotary design that sews as fast as they make them. It is made from cast aluminum, not plastic, and is very light weight, compared to most vintage machines. Simple design and easy to do maintenance to keep it running in top condition. However, it does not do zig-zag or fancy stitching, it is straight stitch only. They last forever, you can hand it down to your grandchildren. I bought mine, in a beautiful wooden cabinet, on Craigslist for $50. Here is what mine looks like:



And here is what the cabinet looks like:



Good luck! Sewing is a great hobby!

[FeelingBlue]

33. Check out...

Vintage Bernina machines and French seams if you want something different and more finished seeming inside.