DIY & Home Improvement
Related: About this forumfloors and sound
I don't have an immediate issue with this, just a question. I've stayed in hotels where I could not hear any sound whatsoever from the room above me. At the other extreme, I've had apartments where the flies walking would produce sound.
What sort of construction is required, to soundproof the floor for the occupants directly underneath ? Just curious, as always. Thanks.
Warpy
(113,130 posts)Hotels do this. Motels don't often do it.
I understand that buildings constructed of steel and cement don't transmit sound between floors or units.
Apartment owners need to do this stuff. Instead, they expect tenants to suck it up.
steve2470
(37,468 posts)My neighbor downstairs says he can hear me walk in my kitchen. He's not complaining, only giving me information. I'm in a condo. It kind of amazed me that he could. I'm glad he's a nice guy and not complaining. There's nothing I can do, of course. I'm not doing jumping jacks up here !
NYC_SKP
(68,644 posts)And concrete slabs are the best.
All are doable on a residential scale.
I like concrete the best!
And, at the end of the day, the rule: :"Neither above nor below, nor to left nor right, shall another family make residence!"
jeff47
(26,549 posts)As a result, what you'd to help with sound insulation is radically different.
When it comes to houses, the main places you need to do something different is on top of the floor, and below the ceiling.
Normal construction:
Joists are put across the walls to form the structural support for the floor and ceiling. Then 1-1/8" or thicker plywood is nailed on top of those joists. The finish flooring material is put on top of that plywood.
Below, drywall is directly screwed to the joists to form the ceiling.
Ways to make it quieter:
-Use ring shank nails when nailing in the plywood. They prevent squeaks. Squeaky floors are caused by the wood moving up and down on a nail that has become slightly loose. Ring shank nails don't come loose. In fact they're really damn hard to pull out if needed.
Upgrading the nails is the easiest thing to do, and something you can easily retrofit if you're changing out the old finished flooring.
-Put insulation between the joists - since it's an interior space, it isn't usually insulated. Adding insulation means you won't transmit sound through the air between the joists. But most of the sound goes through the solid materials.
-Use a flexible adhesive to attach a second layer of drywall to the ceiling. This absorbs some of the vibration, and thus the sound. Again, can be easily retrofitted to existing houses - most people won't notice the ceiling being about 1/2" shorter.
-Instead of screwing the ceiling drywall directly to the joists, you attach a furring channel to the joists, and then attach the drywall to the channel. The channel is able to absorb some of the vibration instead of transferring it to the drywall.
Also can be retrofitted, but significantly more work.
-On top of the plywood floor, put on a layer of high-density foam insulation. Also line the bottom ~2" of the walls with this insulation. Then pour lightweight concrete on top of the insulation. Put your finished floor on top of that concrete. The mass of the concrete reduces the movement, and the insulation helps isolate the concrete from the plywood, absorbing what noise does pass through.
This requires the house be engineered for the extra weight of the concrete, and the stairs have to be built to account for the extra thickness of the floor.
-Once you've done the concrete thing, you can add sound insulating material between the concrete and the finish flooring. The top is fabric, the bottom is a mesh of plastic. Again, flexible so it can avoid transmitting vibration.
steve2470
(37,468 posts)THIS, ladies and gentlemen, is why I come to DU.
valerief
(53,235 posts)(walking, talking) never bothered me.